The Highlands: Glencoe & Loch Ness

Today we took a long but scenic trip through the Highlands to visit Glencoe and the Clansman Center at Ft. Agustus. The drive through the Highlands was amazing. The hills and mountains (and cows) were unlike any I have ever seen in the United States. Glencoe is an area of the Highlands known for its deep valleys that are ideal for hiking, skiing, horseback riding, fishing, and, oddly enough, filming movies. We actually passed the place where many scenes in the Harry Potter series, like the tri-wizard tournament, were filmed.

Hamish the Highland Cow eating potatoes.

On the way over we learned about the Clan Campbell, a clan in Scotland that terrorized its people. Although the Duke of Argyll is a Campbell himself, the clan is very much disliked throughout Scotland as a result of the massacre of Glencoe in 1692, during the era of the Glorious Revolution and Jacobitism. The massacre began simultaneously in three settlements along the glen - Invercoe, Inverrigan, and Achacon - although the killing took place all over the glen as fleeing MacDonalds were pursued. Thirty-eight MacDonalds from the Clan MacDonald of Glencoe were killed by the guests who had accepted their hospitality, on the grounds that the MacDonalds had not been prompt in pledging allegiance to the new king, William of Orange. Another forty women and children died of exposure after their homes were burned.

Memory of this massacre has been kept alive by continued ill feeling between MacDonalds and Campbells. Since the late 20th century the Clachaig Inn, a hotel and pub in Glencoe popular with climbers, has had a sign on its door saying "No Hawkers or Campbells".

Our trip through the Highlands would not have been complete without our final stop at Loch Ness. In Scottish Gaelic, “loch” simply means “lake.” Unfortunately, we did not see Nessie, the infamous monster of Loch Ness.

The Highlands, Scotland

Loch Ness

We made our way to the Clansman Center at Ft. Agustus, where we met an old man with few teeth, dressed in traditional Scottish regalia. We had an hour lecture about the life of Clanspeople in Scotland. I did not realize how prominent clans were in Scottish identity, and how they still exist fully functional today. The man actually showed us how to put on a kilt, and demonstrated on Jacob and Jill in our group. He also showed us literally every kind of weapon Scots used in battle. I did not realize how barbaric the Scottish were in battle until learning their tactics in war. Think “Braveheart!” 

Jacob and Jill in Scottish Clanspeople regalia, Loch Ness